Anna Hansen's Modern Pantry so last century, says critic

31 October 2008 by
Anna Hansen's Modern Pantry so last century, says critic

The Metro's Marina O'Loughlin is underwhelmed by the décor and the food at the Modern Pantry in Farringdon, saying it is more "last century" than modern.

O'Loughlin seems baffled at chef Anna Hansen's decision to "hang onto a formula that worked for her" at the Providores- that of semi fusional style, as she bitingly puts it: "To be fair, the fusion clamour has been toned down here: several dishes feature an entire list of ingredients we recognise."

She also pans the "featureless" space, saying "what are we doing up here in frosty isolation? it's] making us wish we were downstairs where, irritatingly, the ‘all day menu' appears to be identical."

Food wise the critic enjoys the signature dish sugar-cured prawn omelette, but describes the Gunjya as "something the Raj up the road might deliver for you to mindlessly chomp in front of The X Factor".

For these reviews in full and more see What's on the menu? To check out the latest deal see Caterer Eats Out.

Anna Hansen talks about her new opening the Modern Pantry>>

Former Catey winner teams up with D&D London>>

By Gemma Sharkey

E-mail your comments to Gemma Sharkey here.

[The Caterer Blog](http://www.caterersearch.com/blogs/catering-news-blog/) Catch up with more news and gossip on the Caterer Blog here
[Newsletters For the latest hospitality news, sign up for our e-mail newsletters.
The Caterer Breakfast Briefing Email

Start the working day with The Caterer’s free breakfast briefing email

Sign Up and manage your preferences below

Check mark icon
Thank you

You have successfully signed up for the Caterer Breakfast Briefing Email and will hear from us soon!

Jacobs Media Group is honoured to be the recipient of the 2020 Queen's Award for Enterprise.

The highest official awards for UK businesses since being established by royal warrant in 1965. Read more.

close

Ad Blocker detected

We have noticed you are using an adblocker and – although we support freedom of choice – we would like to ask you to enable ads on our site. They are an important revenue source which supports free access of our website's content, especially during the COVID-19 crisis.

trade tracker pixel tracking